Châteauneuf-le-Rouge, a pretty ochre-tinged village just 12 kilometres from Aix-en-Provence, normally has a population of around 2500. Come Sunday July 7, their ranks swell as 10,000 food lovers descend as part of the Festival de la Gastronomie Provençale. Now into its 21st year, the Festival is a celebration of all the things that Provence does so deliciously well – olive oils, fougasse, honey, melons, lavender, cherries, apricots, anchoïade, aïoli, lamb, cheese wrapped in chestnut leaves, calissons, and soothing, chilled rosé. Christophe Bacquié, head of the kitchens of the 5-star l’Hôtel du Castellet, is this year’s guest of honour and he’ll be dishing up advice and some star dishes – although probably not his Grand Marnier soufflé with orange saffron sorbet and Proustian madeleines given the outdoor facilities. Entry is free but tastings come at a price. Easily managed, though, as visitors can buy a carnet (book) full of €1 or €2 tickets on arrival. The Festival opens at 11, with a chef’s lunch from 1-2.30, and tastings through until 6pm.
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